Maryland State Archives
Maryland Colonization Journal Collection
MSA SC 4303

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Maryland State Archives
Maryland Colonization Journal Collection
MSA SC 4303

msa_sc4303_scm11070-0017

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MARYLAND COLONIZATION JOURNAL. CONDUCTED BY THE COMMITTEE ON PUBLICATIONS OF THE MARYLAND STATE COLONIZATION SOCIETY, UNDER THE AUSPICES OF THE MANAGERS OP THE STATE FUND Vol. I. Baltimore, March, 1836. No. 4. When Gratuitous please Circulate. PROSPECTUS. The Board of Managers ol the Mnrylann Slate Colonization Society, and the Board ol Malingers of the Slate Fund, have resolved to publish a quarterly journal, for the purpos. of diffusing inforinution concerning the prin- ciples ami progress of the Maryland plan oi colonization. The Journal will also contain occasional notices of the operations of the friends of colonization in other pints of the Union. It irill bo published, at least, once a quarter, and sometimes oftener. Persons Wishing to receive it regularly as published, may become subscribers by paying titty cents per annum in advance. Donations for the support of the paper will be thankfully receiv- ed. Tbo friends of colonization throughout the Suite will confer a great favour by trans- mitting for the Journal nny intelligence which inuy promote the cause it advocates. All communications are to be directed to the Rev. IRA A. EASTER, Office of tht Maryland Sttite Colonization Society, Haiti- more. and possessed by hush kings, totally indepen- dent ol Freeman, Boleo or Baphro. Knowing this to be the true situation of the country, I was extremely anxious to treat with tbo bush lungs, ere ihey perceived that we should ulti- mately be dependent on I hem lor land for our pimple, and to obtain a pre-emptive claim to iheir territory apparently as a matter of cour- tesy and kindness rather than necessity. Managers of the Mnryland State Fund, Under 'An Act relating to the People of Colour in this State.' CHARLES HOWARD, CHARLES C HARPER, PETER HOFFMAN, REV. WM. McKENNEY, Agent. Mnrylnnd State Colonization Society. Presidcnt. BENJAMIN C HOWARD. Vice Presidents. Dr. Thos. E. Bond, Charles C Harper, Luke Tiernan, Charles Howard, Peter Hoffman, Franklin Anderson. Managers Wm. G. Harrison, John G. Proud, George Keyser, Wm. Crane, Dr. Philip R.Hoffman, Wm. F. Giles, Joseph K. Stapleton, Wm. Woodward, Dr. John Fonerdon, Col. Wm. R. Stuart, Dr. J. H. Briscoe, Dr. George S. Gibson. Robert Mickle, Treasurer. Hugh D. Evans, Rec. Sec'ry. John H. B. Latrobe, Cor. Sec'ry. Luke Tiernan, John G. Proud, Franklin Anderson, John Fonerden, J. 11. Briscoe, Philip Rogers Hoffman Executive Committee. Committee on Publications. John G. Proud, Committee Robert Mickle , on Franklin Anderson, Affairs Agent for the State of Maryland. Rev. Ira A. Easter. Agent for the New England States Rev. S. R. Wynkoop. Governor of Maryland in Liberia. Dr. James Hall. Assitant Agent. Dr. Oliver Holmes, Jr. Missionary at Cape Palmas from the American Board of Commissioners for Foreign Missions. Rev. J. Leighton Wilson. Communication from Dr. Hall. The following long, '"it interesting comma iminiciition from governor IIhII, addressed to the board of managers, will well repay the reader for an attentive perusal of it. It is given without tlie IIImIiiII of u single line, believing it will bo read by all who feel inte- rested in Africa. Harper, Liberia, Nun. 3d, 1835. Hi Dear Sir,—In my last communication, per schooner Harmony, I stated to you our relations with the tribes in our vicinity, detail- ing the palaver with the Half Cavally people, and also my attempt to open a communication to the Cavally river, via the bush country, and of my sending for, and exchanging pre- sents, &a:. with the Bush kings, in order to «ffect this object. Although these, attempt* promised to result in the easy accomplishment of the object desired, yet subsequent events diverted me for a time from bringing the affair to an issue. I believe I have before hinted to you that king* Freeman, Bolco, and Baphro, did not act in good faith in deeding their territory to me, which I then suspected; but delay, in order to investigate the matter at that tune, would have been exceedingly dangerous to the whole undertaking. Instead of owning the laud, as specified in tliu deed, they only have claim to a strip, of about five mill's m breadth, from Cape l'almas to king Cava's country, of about the same breadth to Half Cavally. They have no claim whatever to more than two miles on the river. The country between us and the river, a few miles from the beach, is owned VISIT TO THE KING OF ROBOOKAIf. Having fur some time been aware of the important nml extensive influence possessed by king Tom, of Robonkah, over the river people. I determined.if practicable, to connect MM in some manner with the colony, or at least to cultivate a friendly intercourse with him. For a long lime he held oft", having been, in the first place, greaily exasperated that our liege kings should tuke no notice ol him in the pulaver first held at Cape I'almas at the time of our purchase; and also at not receiving ony share of the money, as is custo- mary, in similar cases, in this country. How- ever, by repeated kindness shown him through his head trade men, ho began to manifest a more friendly disposition, and at the time I was about oflecting a treaty with the hush kings, as above mentioned. I received a friendly message from king Tom, requesting mo to visit him, and stating his willingness to treat with me upon the subject of a cu.-siou ol his territory, as [ had often desired. Upon this I immediately embarked in a canoe for the Cavally river, which I reached in safety, although completely drenched with the sort on lauding. About two miles from the river's mouth, I perceived the water, which con- stantly ilasiied in upon us, to be much warmer t!¦ a11 the sea water generally, and on further examination I found it almost perfectly fresh. You may therefore judge wiih what velocity the Cavally ili.-ch ugos ils waters into the ocean. From liaplno's place, 1 immediately despatched a messenger to king Tom, at Kohookah, informing him id' my urnval, and that 1 would wait upon Mm the day following, and should expect to meet his head-men and sub-kings to sit in the palaver. It will be necessary here to give a slight sketch of the political state of king Tom's dominions at tins lime. He is the acknowledged head king ol the Bulyemah or Grand Devil country, which includes from two to four hundred square miles, situated on the Cavally river, embrac iug both sides to the extent often miles from its month, with the exception of a small town belonging to the Half Cavally people, and about three miles from its mouth on the west side, already deeded to and belonging to the Maryland State Colonization Society, occu- pied by king Baphro, and head-man named Craugh. King Tom was formerly a bush king, and resided some miles up the river. Hut as he became more powerful, he removed to the beach and built the town of Robookah, about four miles east of the river mouth. There are two kings belonging to the tame I'ibe, (Ycibrch) subject, or rather inferior to bun, who inhabit towns, to he herealter noticed, up the river. There exists at this tune a mi»- understanding, or jealousy, between Tom and his sub kings, owing to the following cause: — As I saiil before, and of which 1 shall speak more particularly hereafter, this is the Grand Devil country. In it is located the grand Delphos, which regulates the political move- ments of some of the most powerful tribes m Western Africa. This oracle is consulted by all from Grand Bassa to St. Andrew's bay, and I believe wn9 formerly much visited by Aslmnteis and Fanteps. The votaries are always obliged to make some remuneration in proportion to the magnitude of the matter under consideration, or the ability ol the devotee, and tins is generally pretlv ample, as the nature of the answer or the benefit of the fetish is supposed to depend in some degree upon its amount. There is a kind of high priest, pope, or bishop, appointed by the head- men of the Yeabreh people, who manages the whole business and receives the olfenng of the pilgrim*; this he is obliged to distribute among the head-men of his tribe to their gene- ral satisfaction, or he chances to prove a short lived animal. The last of these dignitaries died by the saucy wood about a month pre- vious to my visit to Cavally. Among the candidates for his successor was king Tom himself. This greatly alarmed the two bush kings, as they were sensible that, in case king Tom succeeded, he would trouble him- self 1 it I lo about a division of the spoils, and there would be an end to this prolific source of profit. They accordingly opposed king Tom, and surceedod in securing I he election of a head-man of one of their bush towns. This greatly chagrined the king, and was one of the causes which induced him to treat with me, anil cede his territory to the Maryland State Colonization Society, hoping thereby to throw the power he lelt himself losing "into other hands than those of his enemies, and to secure himself a good reputation with his new allies. ( also subsequently learned that he had received some intelligence of my negocia- tions with tin' bush kings on the river, and he readily foresaw, that should an arrangement be effected with them tiir openiag a road between Cape 1'alinas and tho river, it would materially lessen his consequence, and the value of his territory, or render it less an object of desire to the American agent. All These circumstances led me to suppose that a Tonty would be easily effected with king Tom hinisel'; but at the same time I became more doubtful of the dispositions id' his sub-kings, who, 1 perceived, were rnther gaming on the old uuu in consequence and uillueuce. ROBOOKAH AND KING TOM. The next day, October 10, I crossed the arge basin at the mouth of the Cavally, ami proceeded to Robookah. The town is situated on the bench about four miles from the river, is very old ami miserably constructed, both as to materials and location. The small town at the river mouth, called Bluroh, and governed by Kerkeli, one of king Tom's head-men, is infinitely more pUasam and preferuble in every respect. Alter wait iug a proper time, his majesty made Ins nppearance in his full court dress, viz. a piece of blue baft around his loins, a check shirt, and kerseymere waistcoat, dragoon's hat and brass trimmings. His Countenance is not like that of most African kings of the ordinary cast, indicating a total want of character. Although striking, it was at first by no means pleasing. His forehead is narrow and sloping, his eyes placed at a great distance from each other, his cheek bones very prominent form- ing the base of a cone, the npex of which you have in his heard, braided and coiled up under a very sharp chin. When deeply engaged in talking a palaver, he has a faculty or habi; ol throwing his chin out horizontally, and ol straining his eyes to tin: exterior of t'leir sockets, which gives an expression truly dia- bjlical. Notwithstanding nil that, 1 louud his majesty exceedingly kind, courteous, and hos- pitable, and what w is far more, well disposed toward* forwarding the subject matter of my voyage. GOVERNOR WAR. Another personage belonging to tins town soon attracted my notice, and ( found linn, upon inquiry, to be worthy of a formal intro- duction to you- I refer to the head-man of the town, whose English name is Governor War. lie is the head war-man of the wliole Zeabreh tribe, and probably possesses more real influ- ence than any other man in the country. His person is very extraordinary: bis countenance extremely calm and placid, yet, at the same time, firm and dignified: lie seldom .-peak", but always to the purpose; and I noted, that when- ever he had given his word upon any subjeel m question, no one presumed to say more, un- less to give assent. I remained in this man's company more than a week, and daily had some business to trans- act with him; during the whole of which time. [ noticed nothing in his conduct or deportment that would derogate in tho least from the character of any distinguished gentleman in the civilized world; and 1 had occasion to wit- ness much to admire, ami gain at once my confidence and respect. He appeared at one glance fully to understand and appreciate the nature and importance of the business of my mission, and cordially and judiciously co-ope- rated with me in all expedient measures pro- posed for its successful accomplishment. I found on my arrival that kug Tom had not as yet despatched a reil ifficiat to his liege kings, but only a. notice of my approach A messenger was now despatched, demanding their attendance. Of MUM one day would bn lost, ere mi answer could be received. However, in the meantime, the palaver was talked with king Tom, ami he was found favourably disposed. I at once gave linn tu understand that I should nut make u p.irchase; that I was now this luuntri/twm, like hunselt, and should he see tit to join his country to mine, and enjoy the whole in common with my people, very well: lie would receive other ad- vantages, therefor, than pecuniary remunera- tion. Tim palaver closed with the day, without any thing definite being effected, as the other lungs were absent. ASCENT OF THE CAVALLY. Oct. 17.—We waited, without intelligence from the bush kings, until three o'clock m the allemoon, when the messenger returned, stat- ing, that in consequence of tlieir late opposition to Iting Tom, in election for grand devil priest, they were afraid to visit Ins town, but vvuuld talk the palaver as he should dictate. We now speedily Bet about it, and agreed upon the most important points, iiisomuuii lliat 1 deter- mined ascending the river, and lortliwith despatched my head krooineii lor goods, pis to)*, ammunition, and all necessary apparatus for the voyage. Tins evening (Saturday) the enclosed deed was executed, and signed by king Tom and head-men, and an escort promised, of Gov. War, and others, to visit ihc other kings, and assist in setting the palaver with them. I spent Sunday, the 18th, at Uubuokali. The men did not return with their luggage until late in the evening. Arrangements were made, earlv on Monday morning, to meet king Tom at ltluroh, to dash lino and head-men at'ter 1 had overhauled our baggage. The business of preparation for ascend- ing the Cavally river was now speedily com-, meneed. All our baggage had been exposed to the rain, from the time of leaving Cape t'aliuas, on Sunday morning, until its amvul ut Cavally, niid remained in boxes until my arrival on Monday noun; consequently, many important articles were rendered useles*. ond almost every thing required brushing up. I spent the whole nfnrnoon in mounting a largo swivel in Baphro's big cuuoe, which I succeed- ed in doing, M that it worked admirably. Most of the night was spent in making car- tridges, repairing arms, and loading. If attack- ed again, as in our first at.emptto ascend the river, I was determined to bo in readiness. I had with me three colonists, (Messrs. Lee, Howard, ami Minor.) and about twenty na- tives—two large canoes were requisite for our men, baggage, arms, and trade goods. All things were arranged, and we had a few hours of confused sleep before day. With me, it was confused sleep in verity. The near pros- pect of accomplishing on enterprise, which for the past year had engaged my attention, and in all endeavours to effect which, I had been uniformly foiled,—the romantic mystery which enveloped this Grand Devil region, inspired me Willi the greatest enthusiasm. 1 hail also received notice that tho Half Cavally people were bu-ily engaged, incit- ing the hush people to acts of hostility, and that they intended to dispute our pas- sage at their river town. I had abundant room for speculation. At daybreak all hands were mustered, and our buggHge put on board the canoes. The rain poured in torrents,and from the density of the opaque mass over head, we had but little hope of respite during tho morning. But so muny, and more powerful obstacles hud heretofore baulked our efforts, that rain seemed of little consequence. Never did African voyager embark on the majestic Quornt with more enthusiastic delight than I experienced in stemming the mighty current of my favourite Cavally. From the repeated rains experienced the last few weeks, tho river was much swollen, und came down with great power, which obliged us to wind closely under the banks for eddies ami counter currents. From the basin, as 1 proceeded up, the river gradually contracted its breadth to hall'a mile, and sometimes less. Notwithstanding the tor- rents of ruin in which we were drenched, tho scenery failed not to excite admiration. We passed three beautiful islands, within a few miles of the river's mouth, two of which had just yielded their crops of rice, and were now thickly covered with a heavy second growth of cassuda. Tho banks were elevated from eight to fifteen feet ubove the surface of tho water, and the frequent ruptures in them, occa- sioned by the rapidity of the current, indicated a great depth of the richest soil. The western bank was covered to the water's edge with bamboo, and other aquatics, bound into one dense impenetrable miss by tho innumerable, vines which the rich African soil always scuds forth in the greatest profusion. On the east side the prospect was far more interesting, if not more beautiful. Most of the land had been cleared, to the distonce of from one half to two miles from the river bank, and crops of rice uud cassada had been successively rinsed thereon. Some crops were still in the ground; most of the way, however, a heavy growth of spear grass covered tho earth, which led one almost to funcy he could hear the whetting of thu scythe, and see the hay cocks in the dis- tance. The back ground of this beautiful landscape presented to the eye the straight, closely studded trunks of immense forest trees. United only by branches at their capitals, they appeared like the stupendous columns of an- cient architecture supporting the wide extend- ed ever-green terrace tunned by their foliage. Considering the great velocity of the current, we passed up rapidly—the almost incessant rain proved a great stimulus to exertion. Tho course of the river was, for the first three miles, north-west and north-north-west, gradually rounding for the next five miles to the noith- nortli-eu»t, and even at cast at Ploroh, the first town at which we landed. ARRIVAL AT PLOROH. The first indications which we perceived of a settlement was u canoe landing: by close watch- ing, wo soon perceived, through the \>uah, a Jew huts, clustered on the top of a high peak. The hill itself seemed suspended from the branches of the immense trees which rose from its base. So romantic was the spot, that one could hard- ly feel it to be a human habitation. However, of this we toon had convincing proof, from a shower of musketry poured down upon us, in honour of our nrrival. Passing this town, (Denah.) wo immediately came abreast of Neatoh, another town, subject to king Toureh of Ploroh, situated like the first mentioned. In a moment after leaving Neatoh, we rounded to under the beautifully located town of I'loroh. Nothing was perceived bf it, owing to the im- mense trees close on the margin Of the river, until we were near enough to jump on shore, uinong the plantain trees, between the house* and water. The main part of the town (that im- mediately overhanging the river) is elevated about thirty feet from the water level. It ia quite small, in comparison with our beach towns, and the houses are miserably construct- ed. I should jliiIl'o it did nut contain three hundred souls. But nil hands wero up, and screaming as usual. We gave them a craclt from our swivel, which for a tune cleared the landing. It was now about lull" past nine o'clock. Wo hud been three and a half hour* on the passage: the distance is between eight